How To Prepare Fabric For Sewing

Before you get started laying out your pattern pieces and cutting your fabric, you will want to prepare your fabric. There is nothing more upsetting than investing your time and effort into sewing a project only to have it shrink the first time you wash it. Fabrics may also shrink differently in each direction, which can also make for a strange looking project in the end. To avoid this, pre-washing or pre-shrinking your fabric before you start to sew can be very helpful.

Fabrics that do not generally require any pre-washing:

• 100% polyesters
• Fleece
• Other synthetics

Some fabrics are available preshrunk, which can save you some time. If you will never wash the item you are making you can also skip this process.

I will generally skip pre-washing if I am using a very light weight cotton such as a voile, where the finish on the fabric adds some stiffness which can be helpful when sewing. However, the other benefits to pre-washing your fabric is to remove any left over residues from the manufacturing process, to remove excess dye, as well as other elements that may be sitting on your fabric. Preparing your fabric will include a few steps.

Washing
It is important to note that when you pre-wash your fabric it may change the look and feel of the fabric. Refer to the fabric bolt at the time of purchasing for the care instructions. Following the care instructions for the fabric is very important.

You can use a washing machine, hand wash or dry clean. Wash the fabric separately to ensure that the colour does not run into other items or test a small piece of fabric prior to washing to determine its' colourfastness. Dark or very bright colours can be pre-rinsed in cool water until the water runs clear, before washing. If you have a dry clean only fabric, you may want to consider finishing the raw edges and then dry cleaning. An alternative to dry cleaning is to use a steam iron in the direction of the grain.

Tip! If you have a fabric that may unravel, you can finish the raw edges with a serger or zigzag stitch before washing.

Drying Your Fabric
Dying the fabric past the point of dryness can help to increase shrinkage. However, I have found that taking the fabric out of the dryer slightly damp and then ironing can be a great way to get wrinkles out. You can also put your dryer on a hot setting and remove fabric promptly after dying to reduce wrinkles. Ideally use the dyer setting that best suites your fabric. Some fabrics will require you to hang dry or to lay flat to dry.

Tip! You can hand wash silk with a gentle detergent and hang dry or dry clean.

Ironing
If in doubt use a dry iron. Some fabrics will end up with water spots if you use a steam iron. It you are not sure about seam ironing, test a small piece of fabric. Try not to distort your fabric when ironing. The safest approach is to iron in the direction of the grain and avoid pushing and pulling against the fabric.

Tip! You can pre-shrink your notions, ribbons, interfacing and zipper if necessary.

Straightening Your Fabric
The next step in preparing your fabric is to straighten the raw ends of your fabric. The goal is to make sure that the lengthwise and crosswise threads of your fabric are at right angles. There are a few ways you can straighten your fabric:

• Fabrics with a pattern - identify a repeated motif along the cross grain and cut a straight line along the pattern.
• Woven fabric - make a small cut at the selvage (self-finished edge of fabric) and pull a crosswise line of thread, then use this line as your cutting line.
• Alternative method - fold the fabric along the grain with the selvage edges together and smooth out wrinkles in fabric. Use a rotary cutter or scissors and a straight edge to cut a straight line across the fabric.

You can trim away your selvage if desired. I often leave my selvage on fabrics that are difficult to identify the right side.

Now your fabric is ready for your sewing project!

If you have a tip or suggestion on straightening your fabric, please comment below.

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Fall Wardrobe Sew-Along

How To Take Body Measurements
Selecting A Pattern

How To Prepare Fabric For Sewing
How To Cut Pattern And Fabric Pieces
Reviewing Pattern Instruction Sheet
Sew-Along - Butterick 6182 Skirt
Sew-Along - New Look 6005 Pants
Sew-Along - Burda 6820 T-Shirt

How to Take Body Measurements

Taking correct and accurate body measurements can ensure a great fitting garment and is well worth the time and effort. It is recommended to take your body measurements prior to purchasing your pattern.

Body Measurement Chart
Create a body measurement chart that you can use as a reference. The measurements you get can then be used to purchase the correct size pattern. The measurements can also aid in purchasing the right style pattern to best suite your body type.

I recommend updating the body measurement chart on a regular basis to document any changes over time. Always use your measurements to determine your pattern size versus going by what size you wear from an off-the-rack garment.

Ideally; however, it is not a requirement.

• Take your own measurements in front of a mirror, or
• Have someone else take your measurements for accuracy
• Do not measure over bulky clothing

There are several areas of the body you can measure for a perfectly tailored fit; however, for the garments we will be making in our sew-alongs only the standard measurements will be needed. On the back of a commercial pattern or in the pattern book your will see a list of standard body measurements, which you can use as a guide for which measurements to take. Remember that the under garments you are wearing will affect your measurements. This is particularly important when you are making a fitted garment.

What you will need:

• Dressmaker or tailor’s measuring tape
• Writing materials

Measurements:

Full Bust – Measure around the fullest part of your bust with the measuring tape around your body.

Back Waist – Measure from the base of your neck to your natural waist along the center of your back (you might need help with this).

Waist – Take this measurement around your natural waistline. Generally this is the narrowest part of your waist; usually near your belly button.

Hips – Several inches below your natural waist line and is generally the widest point.

Crotch Depth (seated) – Measure down from your natural waist to the seat at the side seam while you are sitting.

Pant Length – Measure down from your natural waist to the ankle while you are standing. You can also add a second measurement to the floor.

Back Bodice Width – Measure from arm hole to arm hole at about 4 inches down from center shoulder.

Sleeve length – Slightly bend your elbows and measure along the back of your arm from the shoulder to elbow and elbow to wrist.

*Please note that for a completely tailored garment you can take more measurements in addition to the ones mentioned above.

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Previous Post   |  Next

Fall Wardrobe Sew-Along

How To Take Body Measurements
Selecting A Pattern
How To Prepare Fabric For Sewing
How To Cut Pattern And Fabric Pieces
Reviewing Pattern Instruction Sheet
Sew-Along - Butterick 6182 Skirt
Sew-Along - New Look 6005 Pants
Sew-Along - Burda 6820 T-Shirt

Scrabble Tile Magnets

I recently made some art using scrabble tile pieces and had some tiles left over. I decided to use the tiles to make some fun magnets as a house warming gift. I had purchased an old scrabble set from the thrift store and the rest of the supplies were items I already had in my craft stash. The magnets are super cute and will also look great using small prints of pictures or images to reflect someones hobby. This is a fun and simple project that you can enjoy with kids and the possibilities are endless.

Supplies
Scrabble Tiles
Decorative Paper ( eg. scrapbook paper)
Magnets (round 15 mm / 0.6 in)
Hot Glue or Super Glue
Glue Gun
ModPodge
Dimensional Magic
Scissors
Small Brush

Instructions
1. Cut the decorative paper to fit the face of the tile, and glue the paper onto tile using ModPodge. Let the tile dry before moving onto the next step.

2. Apply the Dimensional Magic to the top of the decorative paper starting in the center of the tile and working outward. Work slowly releasing a small amount of the solution at a time; a little will go a long way. Remove any bubbles with a pin or needle tip.

3. Let dry for several hours on a flat surface. For best results, I recommend drying overnight and covering with a glass to prevent dust particles from settling on the surface while it dries.

4. Apply a small drop of hot glue or super glue to the back of the tile and press the magnet to attach. Let set or follow instructions on the glue you have used.

Now enjoy!

Here are some other projects you may also want to try:

DIY Coasters
Flowers and Butterfly Magnets
Decorative Magnets
Bottle Cap Magnets
DIY Trinket Box

How to Make Rose Scented Sachets

I love making sachets and it is one of my all time favourite handmade gift to make. This project is a rose filled linen sachet with a velvet ribbon. I used an end of lightweight linen that I had left from another project. You can also make a sachet from old tea towels or an old handkerchief. If you have ends of fabric it is also a great way to make great use of them for this great little project. I have found that a lightweight fabric works best and I like to use natural fibers.

I have used dried roses from my garden, but you can purchase fresh flowers, enjoy their beautiful scent and when they dry take them apart for your sachets. You can also use dried lavender or a potpourri mixture. A great place to start looking is at your local heath food or herbal store.

Supplies

• 61/2" square lightweight linen
• matching thread
• 8" velvet ribbon (optional)
• ribbon rosebud (optional)
• funnel
• dried rose buds or lavender
• scissors
• hand-sewing needle
• ruler (optional)
• sewing machine

Instructions
1. Cut your fabric 61/2" x 61/2"(you can also make them smaller if you like).

2. Using the edge of your presser foot stitch along the edges leaving a 1"- 2" opening and trim the corners.

3. Turn inside out and push out your corners then press flat.

4. Stitch 3/8" along three edges leaving the side open just under your 1" - 2" opening. I did a small back tacking stitch at the beginning and the end of my stitch. You are also leaving your needle in your fabric, lifting your presser foot and turning your fabric at the corners, so that you have a continuous line of stitching.

5. Using a funnel, fill the sack with your dried flowers so that it looks like a nice cushiony pillow. I used about five large dried roses.

6. Stitch 3/8" along the remaining inside stitch line and slip stitch your 1" - 2" opening.

7. Criss-cross your ribbon at the ends leaving a 1" tail. Hand-stitch your ribbon on one corner of your sachet and hand-stitch a ribbon rose to embellish.

8. Hang on a hanger or place in your dresser draw.

Enjoy!

If you are making several of them in an assembly fashion works really well

I found a great tutorial on how to make larger "hanger sachets" which I think is a great idea.

Tip: If you have a garden, collect your buds and save them in a bowl or opened glass container and store then in a dark cupboard for future use. When your blooms are fully dried you can take them apart and use them in your sachets.

Do you like sachets? How do you use your sachets?

Crafty Home: Furniture Painting Tutorial

by Jelena Pticek | Poppyseed Creative Living

No matter how easy a job may seem, if you want to do it right you will need to put some effort into it. The same goes for painting. The secret lies in good preparation. Make sure that you work with quality tools, starting with paint, brushes and sealants. Bad quality materials will make your job far more difficult and the end result may not be up to your standards. Also, don’t forget to take your time, work at your own leisure and most importantly have patience and have fun!

Supplies
Project piece
Painter’s tape
Sand paper, potentially paint stripper
Primer (optional)
Paint
Paint tray
Rollers and brushes
Sealant
Jazzy hardware (optional)

TIP: If you are a novice, chose a smaller project, like a small desk or a stool with straight lines. The simpler the lines are, the greater your chance at success.

Step 1. Make sure that the surface is well prepped. Remove all the hardware and if you won’t be putting it back then fill all the holes with the wood filler. With drying the filler may contract a bit and create a dimple in the surface and you may have to repeat the process two or three times. Once the filler is dry and firm sand it off to create a smooth surface. If you want to make sure that the spot where the hole was closed in will not show through; close your eyes and go over the entire surface with the tips of your fingers, if you can not feel the difference then you have done a good job. Sand the entire piece, and then sand it some more. Remove all the dirt, tape off the areas that you wish to protect, and prime if necessary. (I rarely use primer and only when I want to repaint the piece that has been previously painted with oil paint. You need to ask for a special type of primer at the hardware store, the kind that allows transition from oil to latex.)

TIP: Sandpaper comes in different grit designations - the lower the designation the coarser the paper. For most jobs using 120-grit paper will do, but for surfaces that require better sanding I will suggest 100 or 80-grit. For more information on grit sizing, click here. You can also use paint stripper on pieces that have several coats of paint. If you opt for that, make sure you wear gloves and protective clothing.

Step 2. Once your surface has been thoroughly prepped and cleaned it is ready to receive the first coat of paint. I usually put two to three coats of indoor latex paint or furniture formula latex paint. Different pigments are mixed with different bases and colours like red and yellow will require more coats to ensure even coverage. You can use a small foam roller or a variety of brushes for your job. While rollers do a great job on larger surfaces, brushes are excellent for cutting in all the corners and crevices.

TIP: When purchasing brushes, talk to the sales people, describe your project and they will be able to give you a good advice. In my experience, foam brushes tend to leave less brush marks and cause less drips than their “hairy” alternatives.

Step 3. Between coats, I sand the surface lightly with a 120-grit paper to make sure that the next coat of paint adheres better. Wait for the paint to dry completely before applying the sealant. If you are going for the distressed vintage look, use the sand paper to distress the surface in places where it would get most wear.

TIP: I do not use mechanical sander at this point as it does not allow for much control, but you may find that it works for you. In the course of years I have experimented with different distressing techniques. At times I use steel wool (never on light surfaces as it leaves grey residue - I learned this the hard way). I also used turpentine and my bare hands, but if you are just starting sand paper is the best option.

Step 4. After you have achieved the desired look, you can proceed with protecting the surface. There are a variety of options out there of which I use the following two:

1) Clear water-based polyurethane finish – it dries quickly, provides good durability and does not yellow over time. This finish is best for high traffic surfaces like tabletops.

2) Paste finishing wax - protects and adds lustre to any stained or finished wood surface (using wax finish will give your furniture a much softer look). In addition, wax protects the surface against moisture and humidity. You can also apply wax over polyurethane finish.

Step 5. Add your hardware once the polyurethane or the wax has been applied.

TIP: Wash your brushes, paint trays and rollers thoroughly after use. It will save you some $$ and a trip to the hardware store.

Et Voilà! This concludes our furniture painting tutorial.

If you still believe that this is more than you are willing to cope with, send me an email at jelena@poppyseedliving.com. I will be happy to help you with your next painting job.

*All images contained in this post are courtesy of Jelena Pticek | Poppyseed Creative Living.

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About the Author
Jelena Pticek is the founder of Poppyseed Creative Living in Toronto, Ontario. "Transforming used furniture and found objects into funky, one-of-a-kind décor for your home or cottage. Poppyseed Creative Living is part passion, part promise. My passion: making the old new, art that works, and pieces that serve a purpose. My promise: originality, craftsmanship, and a process that's green, green, green." You can find Jelena's creations at local craft fairs, at her Etsy shop and at Freedom Clothing Collective in Toronto.

Blog

Crafty Home: How to Make a Shower Curtain

I found this great vintage cotton sheet at the thrift store a while back and I immediately thought of making a shower curtain for the spring and summer months. I love the print and I really think that it is a fun, light option for my otherwise dark bathroom.

If you have a sheet that you will like to make into a shower curtain, here is what you'll need to get started:

Supplies
1 twin or double size flat sheet
thread to match
straight pins
tape measurer
sewing gauge
seam ripper
iron
sewing machine

Your Fabric
Measure the length and width of your finished sheet to confirm that it is adequate to make your shower curtain. A twin size flat sheet that is approximately 72" x 100" will work; however, a double size sheet will give you a little more to work with. Your sheet will already have a finished top and bottom edge. Your sheet may also be finished on the sides as well, or you may simply have selvedge edges. If you have a sheet with a decorative trim or edging, consider how you will like to use the sheet to keep this decorative element.

Hemming
If your sheet already has a finished edge you may want to use it as is. However, if you are hemming the bottom of your shower curtain, start by folding up the raw edge 1" toward the wrong side of the fabric and press. Turn up another 1" and press again. Edge stitch along the interior folded edge. If you will like to hem the sides, proceed using the same method as the top.

If the top of your sheet already has a "band" you can; a) undo the existing stitching with your seam ripper, b) use as is or c) cut it off to create a new top. The sheet I used had a narrow hem, so I simply cut it off to create a new raw edge. If you have decided to make a new top, you will have to turn in your new raw edge by 2" and press, turn under another 2" and press again. Finish by edge stitching along the interior folded edge.

Tip: If your sheet has a finished end that is already 2" wide you can choose to use this as is. If the folded end is decorative, this can add a beautiful touch to your shower curtain. However, if your fabric is lightweight with more than two layers of fabric, inserting a strip of interfacing to the top edge will provide extra stability to support the weight of the curtain.

Buttonholes

Getting your shower curtain holes laid out nicely can be tricky as you want the shower curtain holes equal distance apart, but you do not want excess fabric at the ends of the curtain. For my curtain, the fabric length was 70 inches, finished and I have a set of 12 shower curtain rings. For those math types, here is a formula that my husband came up with to figure out where to lay out the holes:

Distance Between Holes = (F-2E)/H

where:

F = Fabric Length
H = Number of Curtain Ring Holes
E = End Length

For my project, the measurement looked like this:

F = 70 inches
H = 12 curtain rings
E = 1 inch

(70-2*1)/12
=68/12
=5.66
= or approximately 5 ⅝ inches

You will also have to consider how far from the top edge of your curtain you want the button holes; I made mine a ½ inch from the top and each button hole was ¾ inches long. You can also use your shower curtain liner as a guide, using a fabric marker or chalk to mark out where your holes will be. Mark the placement of the top and bottom points of your buttonholes. Using the buttonhole feature on your sewing machine, sew your buttonholes in a vertical direction. Check your sewing machine manual for instructions on how to make buttonholes. To open you buttonholes, pierce the fabric with your seam ripper and gently glide it down the center of your stitch lines cutting the inside of the buttonholes.

Tip: You can use grommets instead of buttonholes; however, I used buttonholes rather than grommets, because I felt that the weight of the cotton would hold up better to buttonholes rather than grommets.

Now you are ready to hang your new shower curtain!

DIY Daffodil Bouquet

One of my favourite spring flowers is the daffodil. Daffodils are a wonderful perennial with a light aroma and a wonderful range of yellow hues. Ranging from bright yellow to pale white, it is also found in a variety of sizes.

I first learnt about daffodils in William Wordsworth's poem "Daffodils," in a little poetry book my mother had in our library and I fell in love with daffodils even before I ever laid my eyes on one. Seeing the blooms this spring has reminded me of the poem and brought to mind this project.

If you are getting married this spring or early summer it is a flower to consider. I was fortunate to collect some blooms from my garden and some from a neighbouring wood lot close to my house. If you are interested in adding them to your garden, visit your local garden centre and plant some bulbs. If you will like to use them throughout your wedding, check with your florist for availability in your area.

You can make a bouquet using one colour or a combination like the one I have made. Another great option is combining your daffodils with other flowers that have the same colour for a range of texture. I also love the idea of using them in centerpieces. The amount of blooms you use will also be something to consider. The bouquet I made has a dozen stems, which makes for a cute bouquet if you are having a small garden wedding. This size bouquet is also great for bridesmaids as well.

You can make your bouquet the day before your big day. Remember to place it upright in a small amount of water (do not wet the ribbon) and keep it cool in your refrigerator.

Materials
12 Stems of Daffodils
Rubber Band
18" Velvet Ribbon
Pearl Head Pins
Scissors

Instructions
1. Remove foliage before you begin. Hold a flower in your left hand and add alternating coloured flowers to frame your centre flower, turning the bouquet each time. Point the blooms towards you as you work and continue to add flowers, while creating a rounded shape.

2. When your bouquet is your desired size. Gently secure the stems with a rubber band and make adjustments if needed. You can also use floral tape to secure stems by wrapping several times in the same place.

3. Cut the ends of the stems off so they are about 6-8 inches long or to your desired length. Cut stems so that they are in a straight line. Spray flowers lightly with water.

4. Finish your bouquet by wrapping a length of ribbon around the stems, starting from the base of the flowers moving down the stems and covering the rubber band or floral tape. Overlap ribbon slightly.

5. Insert pins into the ribbon at a slight angle to embellish and secure ribbon.

6. Place bouquet in water overnight and keep in a cool place.

Tip!
Daffodils have a substance that is toxic if ingested, so please keep this in mind if you are considering using them for your bouquet. Daffodils can be harmful to cats as well, so something to consider if you are a cat owner. It is generally a good practice to always wash your hands after handling flowers.

Daffodils

by William Wordsworth

I wandered lonely as a cloud

That floats on high o'er vales and hills,

When all at once I saw a crowd,

A host, of golden daffodils;

Beside the lake, beneath the trees,

Fluttering and dancing in the breeze.

Continuous as the stars that shine

And twinkle on the milky way,

They stretched in never-ending line

Along the margin of a bay:

Ten thousand saw I at a glance,

Tossing their heads in sprightly dance.

The waves beside them danced; but they

Out-did the sparkling waves in glee:

A poet could not but be gay,

In such a jocund company:

I gazed--and gazed--but little thought

What wealth the show to me had brought:

For oft, when on my couch I lie

In vacant or in pensive mood,

They flash upon that inward eye

Which is the bliss of solitude;

And then my heart with pleasure fills,

And dances with the daffodils.

Recycled Glass Bottle Vase

In the past I have done bridal consulting and coordinating services. Although I really loved helping couples with their weddings, I don't want to do full wedding planning as I have done in the past. I will be adding a select number of bridal services to Crafted Spaces over the next couple months and I will be approaching things differently than I did before. I look forward to seeing how these new services will evolve.

When I was considering making this addition to my services, the idea of doing an ongoing post on DIY Weddings seemed like a natural compliment. I have been giving much thought to the types of projects I will like to share and I already have a folder full of pending projects as well as Pinterest boards dedicated to weddings and do-it-yourself weddings. There is also a very lonely little post on how to make a ring pillow, which will soon have other accompanying post.

To get the ball rolling, here are the instructions on how I created this recycled glass bottle vase from a "Perrier" water bottle.

Materials
Glass Bottle
Jute Twine
Hot Glue Gun
Glue Sticks

1. Gather your supplies.

2. Wash your bottle. Depending on how stubborn the glue is on the bottle you choose, you may want to soak it as needed. If this only results in the paper coming off with a gluey mess left behind, you can also try any combination of cooking oil, dish soap, hot water and a knife or razor blade scraper. Dry your glass bottle once you have it clean.

3. Place a small bead of glue on the end of your twine and start working from the bottom of the bottle towards the top.

4. Place a little line of glue and lay the twine on top of the glue. Continue working your way around the bottle. With the following row of twine, glue close to the previous row, to avoid too much spacing between rows. Work with a small amount of glue at a time and in a small section at a time.

4. Work the rows of twine to about 1/3 of the bottle - I did mine at 3 inches on a 10 inch bottle. You can cover more or less of your bottle if you desire.

5. Finish your last row with a small bead of glue on the twine and then press against the glass. You may need to clean up any stray threads of glue or beads of glue.

6. Repeat the process at the top of the bottle a couple inches down and working toward the opening. I glued my bottle top with 2 inches of twine.

7. Add water and arrange your flowers.

I love this project, because it is fun and simple to make. You can do a vase that sits beautifully on a guest sign-in table or make a collection of them to use as table centrepieces. You do not have to make all the same, you can play with different shape bottles and a combination of patterns with the twine. Another great idea is perhaps dying or painting the twine to match the colour of your wedding. This can be a great activity that you can get your entire bridal party involved in doing. Everyone can collect bottles and you can turn the event into a wedding crafting party.

I would have loved to use fresh blossoms for this project, but unfortunately nothing in my garden is in bloom just yet and most of what I see around me is still covered in snow. I have a few flower shops in Toronto that I love getting fresh flowers from, so next time I will have to feature something with some fresh blooms.

I hope that this project inspires you. I think that this vase will add a creative touch and is a great way to recycle bottles. What do you think of the new vase? Do you have any similar projects that you have done?

How to Make Bias Tape

Bias tape is a great way to finish the edges of so many projects. I love using bias tape on the edges of aprons, to finish off the armholes of summer dresses and as a fabric ribbon embellishment. You can add a unique touch to your projects by adding bias tape in a contrasting colour or fabric pattern. You can purchase ready-made bias tape or make it yourself. Bias tape is also used to make piping for home decor projects, but also has other applications.

What is bias tape?

Bias tape or bias binding is a strip of fabric that has been cut along the bias or cross grain of your fabric. It is at a 45 degree angle to the grain, which makes it stretchy and easier to use around a curve such as an armhole or neckline. Many strips can be sewn together to make a long "tape." You can vary the width of the bias tape depending on how you will like to use the bias tape. Generally bias tape is available in 1/2 inch or 1 inch width and is a simple bias (unfolded), single-fold bias tape, or a double-fold bias tape.

Making your bias tape

Start by pre-washing or pre-shrinking your fabric. Always make your finished bias tape a bit longer than is needed. Measure the circumference of your project and add several inches to be on the safe side. Next, you will have to decide how wide you want your strip to be. For example, if you will like your finished bias tape to be 1/2 inch and you are making a double-fold bias, then you need a strip that is initially 2 inches wide. To finish your bias tape, you can manually fold and press or you can use several helpful tools that are available to help you with the final phase. I purchased the "Simplicity Bias Tape Maker," which has been really helpful. However, for this tutorial I wanted to demonstrate using the manual method.

Step 1: Find the bias of your fabric and using a ruler and fabric chalk or other marking tool, measure equal distances and mark off the size of the strips you will like to cut.

Step 2: Cut your bias strips using a scissors or rotary cutter. You will notice that your strips are stretchy if you give them a slight tug.

Step 3: Place two strips together so that they form a 90 degree angle with the right sides facing each other. Sew across as shown in photo. Continue to do this with all of you strips to make a continuous strip.

Step 4: Press the seams open and trim the ends off of the seam allowance.

Step 5: Fold your bias in half down the middle and press along the strip. Then fold the outer edges towards the centre of your strip. Another slightly less time consuming method is to feed your bias through a bias tape maker and gently pull and press as you make your way along the bias strip. With the "Simplicity Bias Tape Maker," you simply have to feed the end of your bias strip into the tip, select your fabric setting and press run, and it does the rest for you.

Now you can enjoy your new bias tape.


Types of bias tape

Simple Bias: This is essentially unfolded bias strips, which you can use as ribbon embellishments on packaging, millinery, ribbon work, floral projects or to create piping.

Single Fold: This is when the bias tape is folded on the outer edges and is flat. Single-fold bias tape is great for use on hemlines.

Double Fold: This is the most common type of bias tape used. It is a single-folded tape that has been folded again down the middle of the bias strip. This type of bias is slightly wider on one sided, so if you follow the edge of the short side with your sewing machine, there will be more than enough space for the stiches on the underside not to go over the edge.

Here are examples of how double-fold bias tape can be used.

Bias tape was used on the top edge of the bag.

Bias tape used on armhole and tie strap for a kid's top.

If you will like to make piping with your bias tape, visit "The Seasoned Homemaker" for a wonderful little tutorial on how to "Add Piping to a Pillow."

Chunky Cowl

There has been such a wonderful response to my "Crochet In The Round" post that I have decided to do a follow-up, and to share with you how I created my chunky crochet cowl. As I have mentioned before, writing crochet and knitting patterns is something very new to me. I still have so much to learn, but I enjoy working with yarn and experimenting with different stitches.

I really love the colour combination of the other cowl, but I decided to try two new colours from the same Waverly for Barnet yarn collection. For this piece I used "Butter" and "Gypsy Gold."

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Materials

• 2 - 100g ball Waverly for Bernat (1 ball Butter - 55630, 1 ball Gypsy Gold - 55640) or approx. 180m/197 yards medium weight (#4) acrylic yarn
• US Size 10.5 (6.5 mm) crochet hook

Gauge
10 sc = 4" (10cm)

Size
One size fits all. The finished size is approx. 10” high and 38” around.

Pattern
Using two strands of yarn, ch 84 (leaving approx. a 4 inch tail). Being careful not to twist join with sl st in the beginning ch.

Round1: ch1, *in back loop of next ch, yarn over and pull through loop, now you have three loops on hook, pull last loop through other two loops and repeat around

Round 2 - 6: repeat from * around

Round 7: sc in back loop of next ch and repeat around

Round 8: **sc through both loops and repeat around

Round 9-12: repeat from ** around

Round 13: *in back loop of next ch, yarn over and pull through loop, now you have three loops on hook, pull last loop through other two loops and repeat around

Round 14-18: repeat from * around

Round 19: sc in back loop of next ch and repeat around

Round 20 – 24: **sc through both loops and repeat around

Finishing
Fasten off. Cut yarn leaving a tail and weave in ends.

Note
For round 1 to 6 and 13 to 18 work as you would to create a half double crochet, but without the last loop.

ch(s) = chain(s)
sc = single crochet
sl st = slip stitch

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Here is a printable version of the pattern: Chunky Crochet Cowl Pattern.

Please let me know if there are any errors or problems with the instructions. I will also be happy to answer any questions you may have.

Enjoy!

Terms of Use: This pattern and anything made from it may not be used for commercial purposes. You may not sell anything made from this pattern. You may not resell or redistribute this pattern in part or in whole. Derivative works are prohibited. This pattern and items made from it are intended for personal or charity use only. Copyright © 2013 Crafted Spaces | Yvette-Michelle Cottle Darby. All Rights Reserved.

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UPDATE:
You can find the finished scarf available for sale on my Etsy Verona Collections shop. Thank you!

DIY Etched Glass Votives

I have been getting ready for Christmas, and candles are one of my most favourite ways to decorate. I decided to repurpose a pair of plain glass votives that I bought several months ago. After using the candles that originally came in the glass votives, I wanted to keep using them, rather than sending them off to the recycling bin.

Glass etching cream has a wonderful way of adding new life and a wonderful decorative touch to plain glass pieces. It can also be a perfect gift for the holidays. As fun as this project is, the etching cream can be dangerous to work with.  I therefore took a few safety precautions and I did the project in my laundry room (next to the sink and with the door open). I used two layers of craft paper on a board. This way I was close to the sink and had good ventilation. Another great location may be the kitchen, next to the sink with the windows open if possible.

Supplies:

• Glass Item
• Armour Etch Etching Cream
• Brush
• Stencil, Sticker or Vinyl Adhesive
• Rubber Gloves

First, I started by making sure my glass was clean. You can clean the surface of your glass by using rubbing alcohol, which works well for removing any residue. I then created my design by using a snowflake punch and vinyl adhesive. I peeled off the backing and pressing firmly to apply the snowflakes onto the glass. You can also use stickers or cut out a design. You will also want to make sure you do not have any loose ends or bubbles.

Next, wearing a pair of rubber gloves I applied the etching cream onto the glass very generously using a brush.

I let the etching cream sit on the glass for 10 minutes then washed it away under running water. You will want to refer to the instructions on your product for this part. I finished by drying the votives with a soft cloth.

*It is recommended to do this project close to a sink in a well-ventilated area and avoid contact with your skin by wearing log sleeves and rubber gloves. Please read the product instructions before use.