Reviewing Pattern Instruction Sheet

I wanted to share a brief post on reviewing your pattern instructions prior to sewing. This is something that I emphasize in my sewing classes and wanted to share in this post. It may seem like stating the obvious, but it is a very common mistake that can be made. In the excitement of starting a new project you may not read through the full instructions prior to sewing, which means you may have a few surprises when you are sewing.

Your pattern generally comes with a pattern instruction sheet(s), which I referred to in the post on How to Cut Pattern and Fabric Pieces. There may be several sheets folded together, which has fabric layouts, a glossary of the pattern symbols and step-by-step sewing instructions. Unfortunately, instructions are not always clear and concise and can take away from the fun of sewing. A full review prior to sewing, therefore means that you can identify if the instructions are clear and easy to follow.

Here are some of the other benefits of a full pattern instruction review:

• Confirm that you have cut and prepared all your pieces correctly.
• Take you through the steps and techniques needed to complete your project.
• Confirm the seam allowance needed for the different parts of the project.
• Help you plan your workflow, especially on a big project.
• A great way to identify where you can make modifications to the sewing process.

Once you have reviewed the pattern instruction sheet(s), you can decide if you will like to modify the style of the project. You can decide if you want to add or remove elements from the design or how you will add any decorative detailing. Now you can get started with the sewing and go back through the instructions step-by-step.

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Previous Post | Next


Fall Wardrobe Sew-Along
How To Take Body Measurements
Selecting A Pattern
How To Prepare Fabric For Sewing
How To Cut Pattern And Fabric Pieces
Reviewing Pattern Instruction Sheet
Sew-Along - Butterick 6182 Skirt
Sew-Along - New Look 6005 Pants
Sew-Along - Burda 6820 T-Shirt

How To Cut Pattern And Fabric Pieces

In our previous post we discussed how to prepare your fabric for sewing. Once you have prepared your fabric, it is time to cut your pattern and fabric pieces. Preparing your pieces properly will make your sewing much easier. It is important to cut your pattern pieces accurately, so remember not to rush through this process.

What you will need:

• Pattern
• Paper scissors
• Fabric scissors
• Dressmaker's pins
• Pattern weights (optional)
• Fabric
• Fabric marker or tailor's chalk
• Highlighter (optional)

First you will want to identify which pattern pieces you will need. The pattern pieces will most likely be numbered and labeled, so refer to the pattern line drawing to identify the pieces for the project you are sewing. Cut each piece according to the size you are sewing. Carefully cut your pattern piece just outside of the drawn outline. Your seam allowance is generally included so you do not need to cut beyond the outline.

Some patterns will have the different sizes outlined in different colours, while others will have a variation of solid and dashed lines. In cases where the lines are sold with the same colour for all sizes, be extra careful to follow the line you need. It can be helpful to first trace your line with a highlighter before cutting. The skirt pattern we are using for our first project in our fall sew-along has lines that are the same colour, but they are varied between a solid and dashed lines.

Once you have cut out your pattern pieces, you are ready to lay your pattern pieces on your fabric. Fold the fabric with your salvaged edges together and smooth out any wrinkles in the fabric. Lay your pattern pieces as instructed on the pattern instruction sheet.

Pin pattern pieces in place, then cut fabric out by following the outline of the pattern pieces. You can use pattern weights as an alternative to pinning. Repeat with any needed lining or interfacing. When you have cut your pattern pieces, transfer any markings prior to removing your pins.

Tip! If your pattern pieces are wrinkled or creased, you can use a low setting on a dry iron and smooth the pieces out.


Pattern Tracing Method
You can choose to transfer your pattern instead of cutting the pieces out. This method will preserve your pattern in all of the sizes, allowing you to sew multiple sizes of your project. This is also a great idea if you want a more sturdy material for repeated use or if you are not sure what size you need and will like to do a muslin sample prior to sewing in your desired fabric.

You can transfer your pattern using fabric, tracing paper or kraft paper. You can purchase tracing paper in sheets or in a roll format. The kraft paper is generally in a roll. You can find both tracing and kraft paper at art and craft supply stores, as well as office supply stores.

Tracing paper is fairly transparent so this makes it easy to lay it over your pattern sheets and trace out your pattern using a pencil and then outline with a marker. On both tracing and kraft paper you can use a tracing wheel and follow the traced lines with a pencil or marker. In all cases including the use of fabric, you can use a tracing wheel in combination with dressmaker's carbon paper. Like with the previous method, you will want to transfer all your markings; however, you should also note the pattern number and other details.

Once you are finished with your original pattern pieces, carefully fold them and return them to the pattern envelope. You can check out our post on Organizing Sewing Patterns.

Now you are ready to start sewing!

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Previous Post   |  Next

Fall Wardrobe Sew-Along

How To Take Body Measurements
Selecting A Pattern

How To Prepare Fabric For Sewing
How To Cut Pattern And Fabric Pieces
Reviewing Pattern Instruction Sheet
Sew-Along - Butterick 6182 Skirt
Sew-Along - New Look 6005 Pants
Sew-Along - Burda 6820 T-Shirt

How To Prepare Fabric For Sewing

Before you get started laying out your pattern pieces and cutting your fabric, you will want to prepare your fabric. There is nothing more upsetting than investing your time and effort into sewing a project only to have it shrink the first time you wash it. Fabrics may also shrink differently in each direction, which can also make for a strange looking project in the end. To avoid this, pre-washing or pre-shrinking your fabric before you start to sew can be very helpful.

Fabrics that do not generally require any pre-washing:

• 100% polyesters
• Fleece
• Other synthetics

Some fabrics are available preshrunk, which can save you some time. If you will never wash the item you are making you can also skip this process.

I will generally skip pre-washing if I am using a very light weight cotton such as a voile, where the finish on the fabric adds some stiffness which can be helpful when sewing. However, the other benefits to pre-washing your fabric is to remove any left over residues from the manufacturing process, to remove excess dye, as well as other elements that may be sitting on your fabric. Preparing your fabric will include a few steps.

Washing
It is important to note that when you pre-wash your fabric it may change the look and feel of the fabric. Refer to the fabric bolt at the time of purchasing for the care instructions. Following the care instructions for the fabric is very important.

You can use a washing machine, hand wash or dry clean. Wash the fabric separately to ensure that the colour does not run into other items or test a small piece of fabric prior to washing to determine its' colourfastness. Dark or very bright colours can be pre-rinsed in cool water until the water runs clear, before washing. If you have a dry clean only fabric, you may want to consider finishing the raw edges and then dry cleaning. An alternative to dry cleaning is to use a steam iron in the direction of the grain.

Tip! If you have a fabric that may unravel, you can finish the raw edges with a serger or zigzag stitch before washing.

Drying Your Fabric
Dying the fabric past the point of dryness can help to increase shrinkage. However, I have found that taking the fabric out of the dryer slightly damp and then ironing can be a great way to get wrinkles out. You can also put your dryer on a hot setting and remove fabric promptly after dying to reduce wrinkles. Ideally use the dyer setting that best suites your fabric. Some fabrics will require you to hang dry or to lay flat to dry.

Tip! You can hand wash silk with a gentle detergent and hang dry or dry clean.

Ironing
If in doubt use a dry iron. Some fabrics will end up with water spots if you use a steam iron. It you are not sure about seam ironing, test a small piece of fabric. Try not to distort your fabric when ironing. The safest approach is to iron in the direction of the grain and avoid pushing and pulling against the fabric.

Tip! You can pre-shrink your notions, ribbons, interfacing and zipper if necessary.

Straightening Your Fabric
The next step in preparing your fabric is to straighten the raw ends of your fabric. The goal is to make sure that the lengthwise and crosswise threads of your fabric are at right angles. There are a few ways you can straighten your fabric:

• Fabrics with a pattern - identify a repeated motif along the cross grain and cut a straight line along the pattern.
• Woven fabric - make a small cut at the selvage (self-finished edge of fabric) and pull a crosswise line of thread, then use this line as your cutting line.
• Alternative method - fold the fabric along the grain with the selvage edges together and smooth out wrinkles in fabric. Use a rotary cutter or scissors and a straight edge to cut a straight line across the fabric.

You can trim away your selvage if desired. I often leave my selvage on fabrics that are difficult to identify the right side.

Now your fabric is ready for your sewing project!

If you have a tip or suggestion on straightening your fabric, please comment below.

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Previous Post   |  Next

Fall Wardrobe Sew-Along

How To Take Body Measurements
Selecting A Pattern

How To Prepare Fabric For Sewing
How To Cut Pattern And Fabric Pieces
Reviewing Pattern Instruction Sheet
Sew-Along - Butterick 6182 Skirt
Sew-Along - New Look 6005 Pants
Sew-Along - Burda 6820 T-Shirt

Selecting A Pattern

The first project in our fall wardrobe sew-along is a skirt. We will be using a commercial pattern from Butterick; the Lisette B6182. This is a simple skirt with invisible back zipper, front pleat and side-front pockets. There is a range of sizes for this skirt and the suggested fabrics are easy to work with. The sizes are grouped into A5 (6 to 14) and E5 (14 to 22).

Choose your pattern size

Using the waist and hip measurement you collected on your body measurement chart, choose the pattern size grouping (A5 or E5) you need. The finished length of the skirt in all sizes is twenty four (24) inches, so be sure to measure where this will measure fit on you. You can lengthen and shorten the pattern if needed.

On the flap of the pattern envelope (see below), locate the numbers that represent your waist and hip measurements (a). If your measurements are between two numbers, then I suggest measuring the pattern pieces, minus the seam allowance and determine what the finished garment will measure. You can also transfer the pattern using tracing paper and sew a muslin for an initial fit. Alternatively you can start with the larger size and alter if needed. This skirt is not a tight fitting garment, which suggests that there will be some easement.

Gather fabric and notions

I have chosen to use a linen/cotton blend fabric. You can choose to use a twill, linen or poplin as suggested (b). To determine how much fabric and interfacing you will need, refer to the chart on the back of the pattern envelope (c).

You will also require a 7” invisible zipper and thread. I was unable to find a 7” zipper, therefore I am using an 8” zipper. I am using 100% cotton thread. Ideally you will want to match the colour of your zipper and thread with your fabric or match one of the colours in the print. Once you have gathered your fabric and notions you are now ready to prepare your fabric and cut your pattern pieces.

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Previous Post   |  Next

Fall Wardrobe Sew-Along

How To Take Body Measurements
Selecting A Pattern
How To Prepare Fabric For Sewing
How To Cut Pattern And Fabric Pieces
Reviewing Pattern Instruction Sheet

Sew-Along - Butterick 6182 Skirt
Sew-Along - New Look 6005 Pants
Sew-Along - Burda 6820 T-Shirt